About me

Hello, Welcome on the Road to Nara ! My name is Narayan Kaudinya. I am an Ethnographer and an Indologist. I write, and work as a filmmaker and Photographer.

: ँ : Nara means ‘water’ and ayana is the way or ‘home.’ And I welcome you to my home where you will find my days into words. And my eyes in Images and moving picture. DSC_1027

In 2012, leaving most things, primarily an urban life, job and ambition, i took up working as a teacher in far away regions of Kashmir and Baltistan. And later in the Indian mainland states of Punjab, Haryana and in various regions of Rajasthan. During this time i was involved with children, their families and local folk, observing and archiving their oral histories, documenting the journey altogether. During the times i extensively wrote about education and the ways of developing children minds through arts, culture and environment. While understanding life myself, outside of me as much within.

In 2015, the story of indigenous Balti tribes was published in Yale Journal of International Affairs

In 2016, a story was featured on my journey of being a teacher in the Himalayas

naggar My Journey  I was born in a village, near river Ganga in Uttar Pradesh, India. And was brought to Delhi soon after. I grew up in the Capital. Yet i always carried the sound of my birth river, of peacocks and the sight of an ancient well that was just outside the door of our home in the village. Strangely it was dry, “a bad omen”, so said my grandmother, on the day i was born. Growing up in a family of teachers seemed to have more limitations but gradually became the founding guardians for the life ahead. School finished and against family wishes i got involved in performing and fine arts, reading, literature and Writing. It was then i had started observing life as a photographer. And gradually as i travelled and understood the domains, importance and richness of my land bharata, India- i pursued my masters in History. And went on to study Sanskritam and Yog thereafter. But to run a life in a capitalistic society that parents wished i kept writing and took up jobs as a researcher and assistant to professors that were mainly confined to offices, home and outside/inside libraries. I worked with media houses like The Hindu, Outlook Traveller, The Indian Express, Times of India and India Today, but something never felt like evolving.
3

An old image of my north-Indian bike journey on my good old Pulsar

A time arrived. I had saved enough and decided to travel India on my 150cc Bike. It was in that journey a person found me at a lonely little petrol pump waiting in line to fill water bottle that changed the course and the meaning of my life then. I took up teaching and for next three years travelled throughout and in the most remote little villages of the Himalayas, and far deep in the Karakoram ranges, In remote regions of Kashmir, and later in the mainland- Punjab, Haryana and Rajasthan teaching children. It was still that time when phones were not smart and connectivity hadn’t still reached places. Memories were still out of reach from the timelines of Social media, instead was kept purely as food for own souls.
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On the final day with my 2012 class in the northern-most Indian region of Baltistan.

A Brief history of my Life on the Road There was a time when I did not like traveling in trains as I felt they were one track. Even though they made me see villages, forests and fields, yet they always seemed far. Dislike for trains can also be attributed to the hazy memories i have of my  grandfather, he was a train driver, and many a times took me on over night journeys; looking at the world, sitting in big noisy engine compartments with lollypop handles. So, when i grew up I took long distance buses, one state to another. From Delhi to Madhya Pradesh, to Maharashtra, Goa to Calcutta and a few times back. Travelling in them, many a times alone throughout night on the state highways going through forests, was somehow never assuring that I would reach the right place, but one thing was that I felt nearer to the road, at home around villagers travelling in buses. And after sometime soon it wasn’t exciting anymore.
DSC_0462

On a bus somewhere in Maharashtra on the way to Bhopal, Madhya Pradesh

I remember the first time I got down from a bus desperately, somewhere on the National Highway in Maharashtra to travel in a truck going to Delhi. Afraid, yet dared to ask passing by truck drivers if they can allow me to get going with them, many refused, but this young truck driver, allowed me in the cabin. He was going till Udaipur but what happened in that journey,  made that hitchhike an eternity, and left on me an impression which i still carry lightly. I am an Ancient person. I believe in the presence of the past in our present lives. I have been a disciplined traveller in a way but i like to stay around the earthliness of a country. To go inside villages, finding out about a community documenting old rituals, folk tales and rural weddings. If you consider Indian Subcontinent having a mix of the right amount of rough and old. I love it. FullSizeRender-7.1 This is the first instance where i am spending time writing, a blog. I thought what would i do if all memories only remain inside me, i would burst into pieces from just the mere weight of carrying them around, i decided to write. Because once this body drops, I would like some of my experiences to live on to see future sunsets. ँ I have lived and worked in high intensity conflict zones, walked literally on the roof of the world, for 8 days through the mighty Karakoram ranges. I have crisscrossed India on a 150cc bike four times. Lived through a Silent Massacre; people killing countless, innumerable maybe a slaughter of over a lac animal; seeing fields turning red with blood at a fair in southern Nepal. There came a night, where i was asked to and somehow uncomfortably managed to drive a sixteen-tyre truck from Pune to Udaipur on a hitchhike gone strangeDuring a fellowship in Cambodia i cycled through her countryside recording the banned songs of the father with the golden voice of Cambodia, by a Cambodian Organisation. Learnt rowing a local boat/shikara, while living through the longest curfew period in the history of Kashmir; doing which i became so good that i started ferrying locals from land to their respective houseboats, where in the meantime I and team were able to make a cult, much appreciated web series of six short episodes Live from Kashmir; Paradise Waiting 301678_10150424322899878_1900953848_n Ways of Being There are no secret ways to travel but one, though for completely non-mandatory reasons. Other wise seekers, when they decide and go out after their way, the way appears. I have always travelled by myself, apart from organisational assignments where a team is required like our first experimental film Bongu, set in the isolated mountains of Karakorams, Baltistan, which was premiered in the first Laddakh International Film Festival or likewise many other assignments. But the first ever Balti film happened while we were teaching in Turtuk, Baltistan. We taught kids in the morning, and worked on the film in the night. DSC00380.1 Like Roald Dahl’s famous book “Going Solo”, i absolutely love and prescribe people to understand the importance of travelling solo. Having observed myself on the hard road for more than ten years, there is no other way i feel about it. Also, Having been living with the ways of the world quietly, listening to the winds, leaves and trees in communion, looking at and hearing people patiently and still letting it be are some traits that are slowly earned, though late they certainly arrive like juicy apricots in harsh winters. I use local transport or best i look out for a bike, finding off the map or off the track home accommodation. I carry my own utensils, a copper bottle; refilling water from homes or natural sources. Over all, all my travelling life i have tried to become a bridge between rural and urban economies. One essential thing that i deeply feel helped me survive peacefully, in less means and in any given environment is being a vegetarian. Somehow i managed to never grow an intent to eat any animal, bird or insects. Like most travellers, i have had my awkward moments and tough times of expressing it in a way, of not offending anyone; But i have done it and a few ones have been offended too or so i feel. But Looking back now passing through what all happened i consider this the only magic; because of reasons that go way deeper than merely eating. I have spent majority of my travelling life in meat eating societies, and i feel not only i saved a few animals from earth but kept my unasked vow intact. FullSizeRender-5 Being inherently an educator, over all the past travelling years wherever i stayed; i made sure to visit a nearby school to see the education system or to just have a conversation with the local teachers. Sometimes I offered a talk, a small workshop on the importance of Yog and breathing as body science, simple ideas of storytelling and visual communication. I make it happen also because i have always felt this to be my responsibility to pass on, may be motivate or at least put a thought of hope and love in children. I believe It is an unconditional necessity to recognise the importance of you being there, representing a whole mankind who has been travelling, understanding the world, to these children who might never be able to go beyond their village or state. And because of this i have been fortunate to meet hundreds of children and teachers from all around the country. IMG_2137-2 In my abilities, as i run a small school myself with my mother; i have tried to put my views across at any given place on the importance of primary education years as foundational pillars for children. I remember one of the quotes i heard once while listening to Khushwant singh’s interview that “to make your children, tomorrow’s responsible adults, make sure to read them three R’s, and they were R.K Laksman, Roald Dahl and Ruskin Bond.” When i come back to Delhi, i look after a primary school for children  with my mother for the underprivileged community here that we started in 2008.  here Speaking with Sai, an Indian data scientist in the US, who was visiting India, while bathing in the river Tungabhadra
DO WRITE You know, It always feels great to hear from you, artists, fellow travellers, friends, photographers, writers, bloggers, Now when you have read some tidbits of my life story, i invite and welcome you to write, say, ask anything that you may have thought or felt. It would be lovely to hear from you, more so in these times when there are only celestial beings to look at. You can share and write to me at – narayankaudinya@gmail.com You may also like, only if, you’d like to be a fellow traveller, through many small, every day journeys that i keep posting from assignments, film or photographic works on Instagram, Or may be closer still on Facebook or even my newer explorations on Twitter – feels better at times to meet outside the domains of work, right!  : ँ : Once when things shall give way to the brighter days, i would like to invite you all to our small school. If any one of you are interested in holding a workshop, share stories, artworks, experiences or even want to screen a film, you are heartily welcome. If any child can learn and get inspired from you, It can be a whole new him for life. IMG_2016 If you are a foreigner reading this, imagining and deciding on coming to Bharat/India; and would like to know, have some questions, are inquisitive, on things relating to where, what, how – about seeing, travelling, trekking in India, on a Civilizational or a spiritual quest, about her ancientness, traditions, region; you must write. I will be happy to read from you and will guide you in your journey wherever you want it to be lead to- in exchange of your time given, sharing your stories and experiences with our school children in Delhi. If you are a media house, a travel organisation, a publishing house, tourism board, working in education, interested in collaborating on creative writing, fiction, non-fiction projects, film or Photographic assignments, please visit my Work with me page. : ँ : You may also like to go through some of my extensive long-term Socio-Political Photographic Book Projects at Narayan Tushar Kaudinya. Thank you so much for being here, and i hope that you will come along as my Fellow-Traveller, here on the Road to Nara !

112 Comments

  1. Outstanding personal journey and so well written! I can imagine the explosion internal..to have come out and tumbled into words. I love that you are connected with children..the next buds of tommorrow. Me too! A volunteer teacher in a city…in a very tiny way. But enjoy each learning -teaching moment.

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  2. Veena, thank you so much. Yes, sometimes things take every hour, each day for many days together till it bursts out for one to act. Thats what happened here! We all need, and its a necessity to let most things out. Share, so we can fill more again.
    I am happy you feel that connection in teaching/playing with them yourself. They are the most honest and loudest source of learning. Thank you for writing. And happy to have you around.

    Liked by 1 person

  3. Wow! what a life! What a journey. And I thought I’d done a lot. I’ve travelled the world and done some voluntary work in poor communities there and there. My aim was always to become redundant!
    I am a writer, storyteller and educator. Last January I visited India for the first time I wish I had met you while I was there, I tried to meet up with artists, writers and storytellers but either could not find a way to contact them or got no reply.
    I was horrified at the gigantic gulf between unbelievable wealth and dire poverty so it is wonderful to know that you are devoting your life to giving the poorest skills to help themselves..
    Ná lagaigh Dia do lámh go deo.
    ( This is an Irish wish/blessing in Gaelic. Translation: May God never, ever weaken your hand)
    And thank you for the ‘like’ for my blog

    Liked by 1 person

    • Beautiful to read from you Catherine. More so when you have been travelling yourself and educating children not as a duty but from experience.
      I feel this divide is almost everywhere. Though in India you may and must only experience things in extreme because here almost nothing ls hidden. Even with the wealthy as they may not be.
      Thanks, really for the blessing. Gratitude. I wish you plan to come back here again when days find their peace. And when you do, do write.

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      • I will certainly write whenever I get the chance to return to India.
        That’s an interesting comment about how all is on view on India. So right, You have to dig around to find the hidden horrors in western countries.

        Liked by 1 person

      • Thank you so much. My blog is named so, because my hometown (Baroda) is known for its beautiful Banyan (Vad trees) and my childhood was steeped in stories of all kinds. Also, when I read about your teaching experiences in different schools, it reminded me of a friend who took time off from her journalism career and went and taught at a school in Kashmir for a couple of months. It was a very rewarding experience for her.

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        • Happy to learn that you are from Baroda. Had spent sometime at M.S university myself.
          Yes, teaching though leaves you exhausted but its aftereffects are way more rewarding and fills contentment within. Thank you anyways. Lovely to have you here.

          Liked by 1 person

  4. Interesting and inspiring life. Not many people can achieve this goal. If you sometimes resume your traveling/photography journey, visit Diu. Quite a remarkable place.

    Joanna

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  5. What a lovely introduction and hello Nara, from me, Caz in London. Your photo’s beautiful, thank you for sharing. An I will indeed let you know when I want to travel to India. Caz

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  6. I have stopped following blogs because I struggle to find the time to read them. But I have made an exception for you. You sound very interesting. Looking forward to our journey together.

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  7. Thanks for checking out MoviesAlaMark (and “Himalaya”)–and for allowing me then to be introduced to your superb writing, photography, attitudes and adventures. All the best from Oregon—-Mark

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  8. Logically, it would seem that those with the most, have the most to give. In my personal and work experience, it is not what I’ve observed. Often it is those with little that give the most. Some give everything they have and are far richer for it.

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    • Lea, lovely to have you. Hope you are doing things happily.
      I feel, the ones who don’t think of keeping things, feelings, experiences and enjoy sharing, share without procrastinating. Who has become richer keeping ? And most of all things!

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  9. Enjoy this post about you, your travels and experiences as a teacher. Travel is one of the best educations a teacher can have. One of my cousins has traveled and taught nursing students in Nepal so I learned from him firsthand about your part of the world. Keep documenting your travels and teaching for future generations. History is an important subject to learn too. Thank you.

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    • Hi Mary, delighted to have your words here. I am happy that you have heard and understood about Asia from your cousin and i am sure you must have wondered about it yourself. You must plan coming once we all can actually plan again.
      I have realised if one can allow teachers and to some extent students to travel or take a trip, it could be related to education and learning; it would do a lot to not just help but make curious learners of our children. I will work for it how much ever i’ll be able to.
      Again, thank you for this. lovely reading from you.

      Liked by 1 person

  10. I don’t often read real log posts, but I enjoyed reading your story. I do like to learn about how others live their lives all around the world. Thank you for sharing!

    Liked by 1 person

    • Lisa, welcome here and delighted that you took that time for expressing how you feel, i am happy to contribute from my share of life, living however it has been.
      Lovely to have your words here Lisa. Thank you.

      Liked by 1 person

  11. Thank you for visiting my blog because it gave me a chance to meet you. Your life journey is amazing. I too am an ancient soul, so your story touches me personally. I am originally from Punjab and still have family there. So inspiring to see you “put a thought of hope and love in children.” I decided to follow your Road To Nara. 🙂🙏

    Liked by 1 person

    • Dear Kamini, beautiful to discover you and have your words here along with yourself I am certain you will enjoy the adventures.
      It seems you left Punjab long time back. Today when we see our grandmothers image, it feels a different earth and time. So much seems to have changed. Anyways, i hope to learn something delicious. Love from India. Nara.

      Liked by 1 person

      • Thank you. My family moved to USA 48 years ago. I was in Amritsar last year visiting my family, not being a tourist. I had a great time there just being with my family and visiting the people and places of my childhood . I am planning to go back on November 28th, if the pandemic doesn’t get in my way.

        Liked by 1 person

  12. What an adventurous and inspiring life you have had! I could tell from how well you write that you had to have a background in education and journalism as I do myself! It is a pleasure to meet like minded creative artists such as yourself and I am glad that you followed my blog so I could follow you right back and see the awesome work your doing here, within the education sector and as well as along your many adventurous journeys! Keep up the incredible work! Blessings to you brother! 😀👍💛👊🎉💟💯

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    • Humbling, thank you, i hope it serves bigger purposes in times to come, there is so much to be done here, to rebuild and restructure things, systems for coming generations. Thank you Karuna.

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  13. You are a very interesting person and I love looking at, and reading your blog. For only a second, when I read you were an Indologist, I thought, is there a discipline that studies indolence? If so, I need to look into it.
    Then I realized your study is much more interesting.
    Still indolence does have a lot going for it. Only in between bouts of serious activity of course.
    I love your life and blog. Be well

    Liked by 1 person

    • Dearest Cindy, as i visited your blog, i got freezed like an ice cube, i kept going through your beautiful, intimate colour filled stories. The time, and the people that you have come across; or may be the other way round. And to read these few words of appreciation and kindness felt not only delight filled but motivating.
      Indology is simply the study of India. But looking around, the leaders of the political world, Indolonce does seem an upcoming, highly valued discipline 🙂
      Nevertheless, Lovely to have you, your words here now. Regards. Nara

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  14. pinaymama@sg says

    What an amazing journey! I love Roald Dahl — his anecdote in ‘Going Solo’ where he took a prize-winning photograph while in a ball turret (?) always stuck with me for some reason. I need to check out the two other writers in your quote. 🙂 Be well and safe!

    Liked by 1 person

    • Haha, Pinay mama welcome here. And its absolutely lovely to learn you are from philippines. One of my closest friend is a filipino living in the US. I think you would love the other two as much or even more because of their child like humour and old world wisdom. Anyways Pinay mama, happy to have you along.

      Liked by 1 person

  15. Hi Narayan, I came across your blog, because you visited my blog yesterday, thank you for stopping by. I admire your courage of how are setting your mind and your goals in life, and you definitely have a way with words. You discover the world with words, I do so with images as I am a professional photographer. I love your beautiful country, as I have visited a few years ago as a solo traveler and I am looking forward to learn more about it. Thank you.

    Liked by 1 person

    • Cornelia, as a wedding art photographer there is no region who can pass the magnaminity of the color filled grandness or madness of a South Asian Weddings, primarily Indian; you must have a look for an opportunity to come again and make a photo essay on one of these weddings here, ever if and i wish as soon world happens to become a relatively calmer place once again.

      I have always wanted to visit California, “Californian Redwoods”, that one thing i wish to see, touch, sit on them for meditate may be- that was how while reading up i reached your workplace.

      Thank you, nonetheless, lovely to have you, your words and to be able to see your work. My Regards. Nara.

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      • Nara, thank you so much for your kind response. You know when I was In India, I had the unexpectedly chance to witness parts of Indian wedding, from my room I heard all this music going by my window, asking my hosts what’s going on, so their son offered me to take me on the back of his motorbike to the this wedding, it was evening time, I had my camera with me asked some people if they don’t mind if I take pictures,when they heard that I came from the US, ( originally I am from Germany) they greeted me so warmly and welcomed me, to take pictures, they even announced me over their microphone to the wedding party, it was an amazing experience to meet so many wonderful people, who wanted to talk to me. Thank you for listening to my story and appreciating my photography work. Stay safe and be blessed. Cornelia

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  16. I connect on a very deep level to many things you have written. I like to travel the same way as you- talk to the locals, visit a school. Being a vegetarian, I have gone through the same things. I really loved the paragraph about solo traveling. Keep writing, it’s a joy to read your adventures.

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    • Shreya, that is beautiful to learn for me that we share some values so close to humanity and its essence. These all values come from nature, and i can only suggest you to believe and let her lead you, as i feel certain that you are looking where the prime resides. Very happy to read this.

      Liked by 1 person

  17. Pingback: About Narayan – Pradeep's Blog

    • Hi Pradip. It is humbling to receive this and to see that you shared it. It always feels good to see one’s work is valued and can be of help for anyone who comes across. Thank you very much.

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  18. That’s an amazing account. Truly inspirational. Not many people will or can do what you have been doing. You are one of those unsung heroes that nobody ever knows of, those that touch and transform many lives yet work silently in the background. More power to you. The world is indeed a beautiful place for people like you. Thank you for starting a blog and bringing your stories to us.

    Liked by 1 person

    • Neel- I dont know if its also a name, your name. First, thank you for coming over. I am humbled to read your sincere and motivating words. Don’t really believe i have done anything yet all what remains are our experiences.
      Yes, it wasn’t easy for me to come, have a blog and write. Yet, see this is how gradually, slowly things are forming.
      Anyways, its delightful having someone who feels and who herself wants to share as much one can. Thank you.

      Liked by 1 person

      • Everyone calls me Neel, so that’s absolutely okay. You’re being humble but reading all the other comments I can tell that your work has touched many people in the same way. My pleasure to know about your blog and I will go and read all the different stories out there. Tonnes of good wishes 🙂

        Liked by 1 person

        • Neel, thank you for tonnes of good wishes. i absolutely must have them 🙂 and i will share with all who may need them as much. You know it is as much a pleasure to have someone who feels as much and loves living experiences. And i can’t thank enough. It feels a lighter, happier place 🙂

          Liked by 1 person

  19. It is one thing to experience something and another thing all together to write about it/narrate it and stir something within the reader! I am so glad you stopped by my blog which in turn prompted me to look at your work. I am in awe of what you do. I am reading your posts with interest and able to connect with some things you say. Wish you all the best and thank you for sharing your work for us to read and learn from.

    Liked by 1 person

    • Kirana, 🙂 – well i didn’t plan to write this much and how, but slowly all started coming out from all the pores and breathes that lived and bathed in rives that came along the way. I am happy too, makes me delighted to have you and read your words after all.
      I am happy that you could find that centre, that connectedness in what i say, somehow. It means a lot.
      And to share, dear Kirana is my first duty, param dharma as they say 🙂
      Thank you much, its really humbling.

      Liked by 1 person

  20. Wow! Not only have you lived and experienced an amazing life so far but you can write about it beautifully. Just reading your ‘about me’ page had me spellbound.
    Well done
    I will follow with great interest.

    Liked by 1 person

    • How unlikely it is to have such a kind comment from a question Bang/k. 🙂 Thank you for coming over and sharing your words here. Is there any question paper helpful for me thoug
      h !? 🙂

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  21. Pingback: Ideal Inspiration Blogger Award – Triangle Writes…

  22. You have an amazing power, Narayan, to draw people to you and make a lasting impression. As I have said before when you write your hand is guided by angels. It is the most beautiful set of essays I have ever read. They are not of this world and I love them. Thank you.

    Joanna

    Liked by 1 person

  23. Thank you for visiting my blog. I am very happy to know person like you. In Finland have worked before with ethnographic museum. It was a nice experience.

    Liked by 1 person

  24. Hi, Narayan! Wow! What an introduction! You have such passion for your work and people! 🙂
    I love your heart for children.
    Thank you for the pictures and teaching so much on India. It is the only way I will ever be able to see it. It is highly unlikely I will ever leave my country (USA) because I have so many health issues. Thank you so much for taking me along on your journey! I love your blog!
    Praying all good things for you!
    God loves you! 🙂

    Liked by 1 person

    • Gail, it was heart warming to read your words when i first did and kept me smiling and light for many minutes to come. Thank you for this.

      I imagine and would like to wish that we pray for you that you come to India, and no. i am not saying you come here to travel or experiences, but come here to become once again yourself.

      I even feel delighted to write to you. Thank you for coming.

      Thanks, and we both love each other, no doubt about it 🙂

      Liked by 1 person

  25. There is much beauty in the language of your personal narrative. It is particularly nice to see a person so connected to their land and their people. I find all the place names quite evocative and lovely as with the Karakoram Ranges and Kashmir. The words alone give rise to a desire to go there. I think the opportunity for real introspection and observation is greatest when traveling solo. That seems very brave to me as I generally do like to go places with a little company to share it plus I’m a big chicken and can be terrible with maps. Although I love maps 🙂

    Teaching along the way is a very generous thing to do, yet I am sure that you learn from your students as well.

    As one who loves the ocean and is a Pisces too, seems a cool thing to have a name that means water! I have the janthina shell as my icon because I’ve always felt a bit undirected and the shell floats on a raft of bubbles and lives at the mercy of winds and tides. Perhaps we should all, at least for a spell, be willing to let experiences flow around us and take us where they will as you are doing.

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  26. Hello Narayan,

    Thank you so much for your visit to my blog and that really led me to this beautiful blog and your stories.

    Reading your ‘About’ page is really interesting for me as I also took a different route from the conventional one around the same time 2013-14.

    Now, I am part of a social enterprise (Kabani Community tourism) working with local communities in developing sustainable tourism programmes and fine tuning my photography skills …

    Looking forward to read your travel experiences and stories here 🙂

    Liked by 1 person

    • Sreejith,

      Thank you for coming and for your words. I did happen to come over and read your blog.

      I am happy to know about this enterprise as i myself run something along travel-education along urban and rural economy, so Kabani sounds interesting. Would love to know more and their area of work.

      Photography is important. Happy to know you are honing it. It is a modern literature and will be studied like other languages. Or so i think
      🙂

      Same here. Pleasure and Welcome.

      Like

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